Growing tomatoes outdoors can sometimes be a bit risky depending on the weather, but the taste of homegrown, sun-ripened tomatoes is incomparable. Experienced gardeners know: Success does not lie in expensive fertilizer, but in the right technique.
Here are 10 proven tips for a bountiful harvest:
Plant deeply (simply lying down). Tomatoes will develop roots along the entire length of the stem. Plant them outdoors significantly deeper than they were in pots. Don’t hesitate to remove the lower leaves and bury part of the stem in the soil. If your seedlings are too long and weak, place them diagonally in the furrow and cover them with soil. This will encourage the plant to develop a strong root system that absorbs water and nutrients more efficiently.
The right place: Sun and a roof over your head
Tomatoes love the sun (they need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day), but they hate wet leaves. A place near a south-facing wall or under an overhanging roof that protects them from the rain is ideal. If there is no roof, a simple plastic cover with open sides will do, allowing good air circulation.
Pinching the leaf axils (be careful)
With vine tomatoes, the so-called leaf axils need to be pinched regularly (at least once a week). These are new shoots that grow in the leaf axils between the main stem and the leaves. If you let them grow, you will get a large green bush, but only a few small fruits, because the plant puts its energy into the leaves and not the tomatoes. Attention: Bush tomatoes do not break!
Watering: It is best to water less often, but thoroughly. Never water directly on the leaves – this encourages the growth of mold. Water only at the base of the plant. The golden rule for gardeners is: Don’t water lightly every day, but thoroughly 2-3 times a week (depending on the weather). This will encourage the roots to penetrate deep into the soil.
Mulching is half the battle.
After planting the seedlings, cover the soil around them with a layer of mulch (grass clippings or straw are ideal). Mulch performs three important functions: It retains moisture in the soil (so you need to water less), prevents the growth of weeds and – most importantly – prevents soil from splashing onto the lower leaves during rain, significantly reducing the risk of fungal infections.
Nutrients or “Tomatoes are gluttons.”
Tomatoes are very nutrient-demanding plants. Add a good portion of compost or mature manure to the planting hole. Experienced gardeners avoid fermented chicken manure (fermenter) or nettle juice during the growing season. When tomatoes flower and set fruit, they need more potassium and less nitrogen (so that they don’t just produce leaves).
Watch out for calcium deficiency (black leaf tips). If you notice dry, black spots on the underside of your tomato plants, it’s not mold, but rather dry rot caused by a calcium deficiency. This often occurs with irregular watering (the plant can’t absorb calcium). Quick fix: Spray the leaves with a calcium fertilizer (e.g. Wuxal) or work ground eggshells into the soil.
Remove the leaves from the bottom of the stems. As the tomato plant grows, gradually remove the lower leaves. Immediately after planting, remove the leaves that touch the ground. Later, gradually remove the leaves below the first bunch of fruit. This will keep the base of the stem well ventilated, allow it to dry out more quickly, and prevent mold growth.
Provide solid support from the start. By August, tomato plants can weigh several kilograms under the weight of the fruit. Attach a sturdy stake (wood, metal, or wire) to the plant immediately after planting. Doing so later can damage the extensive root system. Tie the stem to the stake regularly (ideally with old nylon stockings or soft, non-cutting twine).
Stems in August (tip cutting)
Around mid-August (by the end of the month at the latest), cut off the main tip of the plant’s shoot. The tomato plant will continue to flower, but fruit planted at the end of summer will not have enough time to ripen in our conditions outdoors. By stopping the plant’s growth, you force it to invest all its remaining energy in ripening the tomatoes that are already on the vine.
One last piece of advice from experienced gardeners: If you have green tomatoes still on the vine in the fall and the first frosts are threatening, pick them, put them in a shoebox along with a ripe apple or banana (which release ethylene) and let them decompose.